Modeling waves, currents and sandbars on natural beaches: The effect of surface rollers
A morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of nearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide condition...
| Autores: | , , , |
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| Formato: | artículo |
| Fecha de publicación: | 2011 |
| País: | España |
| Recursos: | Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) |
| Repositorio: | UPCommons. Portal del coneixement obert de la UPC |
| Idioma: | inglés |
| OAI Identifier: | oai:upcommons.upc.edu:2117/26372 |
| Acesso em linha: | https://hdl.handle.net/2117/26372 https://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jmarsys.2011.02.016 |
| Access Level: | acceso abierto |
| Palavra-chave: | Sand bars--Forecasting Coastal zone Nearshore bars Longshore currents Waves on beaches Rollers Longshore sediment transport Platges -- Erosió Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia |
| Resumo: | A morphodynamic model has been extended to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of nearshore sand bars. The model describes feedbacks between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. Offshore wave, wind and tide conditions and the bathymetry measured at Egmond site (the Netherlands) are firstly applied to compute the longshore current and wave height profiles. |
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