Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysis

This work examines the photoinduced isomerization of the UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) in different real samples, including environmental waters, cosmetic products, and human skin. Water samples (river, sea, and swimming pool water) spiked at environmentally relevant concentrations we...

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Detalles Bibliográficos
Autores: Zulfiqar, Hira, Llompart Vizoso, María del Pilar, Castiñeira Landeira, Ana, Duque Villaverde, Andrés, Fabbri, Daniele
Tipo de recurso: artículo
Fecha de publicación:2026
País:España
Institución:Universidad de Santiago de Compostela (USC)
Repositorio:Minerva. Repositorio Institucional de la Universidad de Santiago de Compostela
Idioma:inglés
OAI Identifier:oai:dnet:minerva_____::e5c93b166bb879c57326959f6e72bfea
Acceso en línea:https://hdl.handle.net/10347/46646
Access Level:acceso abierto
Palabra clave:Personal care products
Water analysis
EHMC isomerization
UV filters
GC–MS
SPME
Photoisomerization
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spelling Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysisZulfiqar, HiraLlompart Vizoso, María del PilarCastiñeira Landeira, AnaDuque Villaverde, AndrésFabbri, DanielePersonal care productsWater analysisEHMC isomerizationUV filtersGC–MSSPMEPhotoisomerizationThis work examines the photoinduced isomerization of the UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) in different real samples, including environmental waters, cosmetic products, and human skin. Water samples (river, sea, and swimming pool water) spiked at environmentally relevant concentrations were irradiated with UV light and analyzed by solid-phase microextraction (SPME) followed by GC–MS. Natural waters showed minimal total degradation of EHMC, reaching an (E/Z, trans/cis)-photostationary state with slight predominance of the Z isomer. In contrast, swimming pool water exhibited rapid EHMC loss, likely due to disinfectants, reducing concentration below 20% within 10 min. Cosmetic products (sunscreen cream, lip balm, and hair oil) were irradiated under the same UV conditions after application onto glass slides, and EHMC was extracted using vortex and ultrasound assisted extraction (UAE) followed by GC–MS. All samples exhibited formation of Z-EHMC, representing 30–50% of total EHMC at photostationary equilibrium, with minimal total degradation. Similar behavior was observed under natural sunlight, confirming that cosmetic products undergo photoinduced transformation under real conditions. To simulate human exposure, cosmetic products were applied to in vitro human skin and irradiated, again resulting in rapid formation of Z-EHMC. This isomer is known to be less effective as a sun protector and potentially more toxic. These findings demonstrate that EHMC consistently converts into its Z isomer across environmental waters, cosmetic products, and human skin, highlighting potential implications for sunscreen efficacy as well as environmental and human health risks. Additionally, the applied extraction and analytical methods proved to be suitable for monitoring EHMC in complex matrices.ElsevierUniversidade de Santiago de Compostela. Centro Interdisciplinar de Investigación en Tecnoloxías Ambientais (CRETUS)Universidade de Santiago de Compostela. Departamento de Química Analítica, Nutrición e Bromatoloxía20262026-02-0320262026-02-03journal articlehttp://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501VoRhttp://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85info:eu-repo/semantics/articleapplication/pdfhttps://hdl.handle.net/10347/46646reponame:Minerva. Repositorio Institucional de la Universidad de Santiago de Compostelainstname:Universidad de Santiago de Compostela (USC)Inglésengopen accesshttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2© 2026 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license ( http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by- nc-nd/4.0/).http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessoai:dnet:minerva_____::e5c93b166bb879c57326959f6e72bfea2026-06-15T12:47:27Z
dc.title.none.fl_str_mv Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysis
title Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysis
spellingShingle Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysis
Zulfiqar, Hira
Personal care products
Water analysis
EHMC isomerization
UV filters
GC–MS
SPME
Photoisomerization
title_short Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysis
title_full Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysis
title_fullStr Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysis
title_full_unstemmed Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysis
title_sort Assessment of UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate photoisomerization in aquatic environments, cosmetics and in vitro skin by (micro)extraction GC–MS analysis
dc.creator.none.fl_str_mv Zulfiqar, Hira
Llompart Vizoso, María del Pilar
Castiñeira Landeira, Ana
Duque Villaverde, Andrés
Fabbri, Daniele
author Zulfiqar, Hira
author_facet Zulfiqar, Hira
Llompart Vizoso, María del Pilar
Castiñeira Landeira, Ana
Duque Villaverde, Andrés
Fabbri, Daniele
author_role author
author2 Llompart Vizoso, María del Pilar
Castiñeira Landeira, Ana
Duque Villaverde, Andrés
Fabbri, Daniele
author2_role author
author
author
author
dc.contributor.none.fl_str_mv Universidade de Santiago de Compostela. Centro Interdisciplinar de Investigación en Tecnoloxías Ambientais (CRETUS)
Universidade de Santiago de Compostela. Departamento de Química Analítica, Nutrición e Bromatoloxía
dc.subject.none.fl_str_mv Personal care products
Water analysis
EHMC isomerization
UV filters
GC–MS
SPME
Photoisomerization
topic Personal care products
Water analysis
EHMC isomerization
UV filters
GC–MS
SPME
Photoisomerization
description This work examines the photoinduced isomerization of the UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) in different real samples, including environmental waters, cosmetic products, and human skin. Water samples (river, sea, and swimming pool water) spiked at environmentally relevant concentrations were irradiated with UV light and analyzed by solid-phase microextraction (SPME) followed by GC–MS. Natural waters showed minimal total degradation of EHMC, reaching an (E/Z, trans/cis)-photostationary state with slight predominance of the Z isomer. In contrast, swimming pool water exhibited rapid EHMC loss, likely due to disinfectants, reducing concentration below 20% within 10 min. Cosmetic products (sunscreen cream, lip balm, and hair oil) were irradiated under the same UV conditions after application onto glass slides, and EHMC was extracted using vortex and ultrasound assisted extraction (UAE) followed by GC–MS. All samples exhibited formation of Z-EHMC, representing 30–50% of total EHMC at photostationary equilibrium, with minimal total degradation. Similar behavior was observed under natural sunlight, confirming that cosmetic products undergo photoinduced transformation under real conditions. To simulate human exposure, cosmetic products were applied to in vitro human skin and irradiated, again resulting in rapid formation of Z-EHMC. This isomer is known to be less effective as a sun protector and potentially more toxic. These findings demonstrate that EHMC consistently converts into its Z isomer across environmental waters, cosmetic products, and human skin, highlighting potential implications for sunscreen efficacy as well as environmental and human health risks. Additionally, the applied extraction and analytical methods proved to be suitable for monitoring EHMC in complex matrices.
publishDate 2026
dc.date.none.fl_str_mv 2026
2026-02-03
2026
2026-02-03
dc.type.none.fl_str_mv journal article
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
VoR
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
dc.type.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/article
format article
dc.identifier.none.fl_str_mv https://hdl.handle.net/10347/46646
url https://hdl.handle.net/10347/46646
dc.language.none.fl_str_mv Inglés
eng
language_invalid_str_mv Inglés
language eng
dc.rights.none.fl_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
dc.rights.openaire.fl_str_mv info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
rights_invalid_str_mv open access
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/
eu_rights_str_mv openAccess
dc.format.none.fl_str_mv application/pdf
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv Elsevier
publisher.none.fl_str_mv Elsevier
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv reponame:Minerva. Repositorio Institucional de la Universidad de Santiago de Compostela
instname:Universidad de Santiago de Compostela (USC)
instname_str Universidad de Santiago de Compostela (USC)
reponame_str Minerva. Repositorio Institucional de la Universidad de Santiago de Compostela
collection Minerva. Repositorio Institucional de la Universidad de Santiago de Compostela
repository.name.fl_str_mv
repository.mail.fl_str_mv
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